Cuba Photography Trip – January 12-20, 2019
January 12, 2019 – STL to Miami: As I write this entry, we are in the air heading from STL to Miami. It’s been interesting today and, especially, yesterday. It all started a couple of days ago when the weather folks started talking about a huge snow storm that was coming our way. We tend to ignore these predictions since storms often end up either swinging away from STL or not being as bad as they say. This was a huge exception. It came. It shut down about everything.
What I had planned to do was to go to the airport this morning. Even with the snow coming in, I thought I could use my new snow blower, call Lyft, and be on my way. As the reports grew dire, I reassessed. Used an app to make a reservation at the Airport Hampton Inn for last night and let Jeff know. He agreed to join me.
The Lyft driver picked me up at 2:00 and it took over an hour to get to the motel. We changed route several times along the way consulting with Google Maps on the driver’s phone and Waze on mine. It was snowing hard. People were sliding. Traffic ground to a standstill many times. And it only got worse as the evening progressed with lots of accidents, road closures, people abandoning vehicles, people stuck in vehicles.
Room 105 was a nice respite from the raging storm. About 6:00, Jeff and I trudged through the heavy snow to a Bandanna’s BBQ nearby. Nice meal. Back to the room to monitor weather. Jeff, of course, kept track of all the members of the Cuba trip to see where they were and how they were faring. And he checked on the weather as soon as he awakened today as well.
Got up around 7:00 today and did the motel breakfast. Jeff could see by web cameras on highways that things were moving again. Took the shuttle over to the airport. It was pretty empty even at the TSA screening where there was no line and only one station open. With our Pre-Check and no Pre-Check line, it wasn’t a problem since we were treated by the agents for screening as if we were going through a Pre-Check screening. I thanked one agent for serving during the government shutdown. He smiled and said it was okay and had been through this before.
All the group members who should have been coming for our flight arrived – eight of us with others either already in Miami or on their way from a different starting point. Some of my fellow passengers came this AM. Some stayed with kin nearby. Some at airport motels. And our flight left pretty much on time after a brief halt to be sprayed with de-icing green stuff.
Snowmageddon 2019 dumped up to a foot of snow in the area. It is the heaviest snowfall we’ve had here since the 1980s, I think. Even though the roads were open this AM, both Jeff and I were glad about the choice we made to come to the airport area last night. Sure took away some stress on what we’d be thinking if we were home this morning and had been through a sleepless night worrying.
Got to Miami on time. 80 degrees! Long walk from plane, up and down escalators, train to another station, long walk, up and down escalators … finally to baggage claim where our luggage came in way down at the last carousel. Then long walk through terminal to a particular door to wait for the Fairfield Inn & Suites to arrive to take us to motel.
After checking in, we met with Jeff to fill out Cuban visas and just talk a bit. Then to the Latin Café down the street for nice Cuban food and some sangria. On the way to and from the restaurant, you pass by a “pre-owned” luxury car dealer where we saw sticker prices going up to $140,000! And the lot was full of gleaming “used” cars. Yikes.
To the room around 7:45 to enter this, download the few images from today, pick clothes for tomorrow, etc. Need to meet in lobby at 5:45 for a 6:00 van to the airport to have plenty of time to check in, go through security, etc. before a 9:00 AM flight.
January 13, 2019 – Miami to Havana: Got up at 5:00 and down to the lobby by 5:30. Shuttle to airport at 6:00. Long time checking in since Jeff had to use a kiosk and do us one at a time. Security was fine even though I did not have Pre-Check. Full flight to Havana. Lots of folks put on plane in wheelchairs.
Flight was only about 45 minutes. Waiting for luggage was longer than the flight. Many people going to for from Havana from Miami have big bundles of “things” fully wrapped in plastic. Some folks, we are told, actually ferry stuff to Cuba for paying customers. Easy to go through passport control. Met Zoe, our guide, and got on our bus with driver, Juanito. Zoe explained the lay of the land, what we were passing, where we were going. Went first to Ffusterlandia, a whole artistic development by Jose Fuster inspired by Gaudi. Reminded me of the Gaudi park in Barcelona and his work atop an apartment building. Fascinating and whimsical tile work.
Since the main studio was closed for lunch, we got back on the bus and went deep in the Miramar area to a bayside restaurant, Riomar, for a huge and lengthy lunch. Then back to Ffusterlandia to the studio headquarters to roam around.
Around 3:30 we headed back into central Havana and our hotel, Parque Central, to check in, exchange money, and get into our rooms. Mine was 541. Somehow, I had lost my jacket along the way, but someone had turned it in and I got it later in the lobby.
At 5:30, we met Zoe in the lobby and took a walk through this part of central Havana ending up at our restaurant of the evening, Al Carbon. Another huge meal. Very good. Lengthy, of course. Then a walk back to the hotel to download images and write this and check in at home.
Up early tomorrow for pre-dawn walk. Need to shower and get to bed.
January 14, 2019 – Havana: Got up at 6:00 and was down in the lobby at 6:30 to meet Jeff for a dawn walk. Went down side streets taking images of buildings, people starting the day, color in the sky. Walked back to the hotel about 8:00 and got breakfast at the huge breakfast buffet. Bigger than the one in Israel!
At 9:00 we met Jeff and Zoe in the lobby and then got a presentation in a meeting room for the next hour-and-a-half from a retired Cuban diplomat, Carlos Alzugaray, on the history of Cuban-American relations. Very detailed and interesting, although a bit long and I got sleepy a bit! But all worth it.
At 10:45 we met in the lobby and took a long walk in Old Havana until our lunch at 1:00. The buildings in this section are crumbling or have crumbled. Neat architecture, but decayed and decaying. There is so much beauty combined with so much poverty. Walked lots of side streets away from tourist areas. Saw the people in their places of living and work. Witnessed what they call the “Cuban elevator” where someone from an upper floor lowers a bucket on a rope to the street and goods are placed in it to be hauled back up. And dogs. Lots of friendly street dogs all small … about Sabrina’s size for most. Follow you around with longing in their eyes. Nap at your feet when you stop for a while. And they look healthy and well-fed.
We saw a range of old buildings and styles. Some rubble. Some near that. A totally gutted church with streams of sunlight enhanced by the dust from the workman inside. Gutted courtyards. People on their balconies. Lots of laundry out drying. Cars, pedi-taxis, scooters, motorcycles, old diesel buses belching black smoke.
At 1:00 ended up just off Cathedral Square for lunch at Paladar Dona Eutimia. Big lunch, of course. Followed by gelato at a place nearby! Then a long walk to the ferry terminal. In all, we walked well over 5 miles today. Ferry across the bay to Casa Blanca, a small fishing village. Not much to see there, but interesting. Then took our bus to the El Cristo huge Jesus Christ statue overlooking the harbour. And our final adventure was a long ride in vintage Model A cars all around Havana with a stop at the garage where these cars are maintained. Fascinating how they can keep all these old cars running. Ingenuity for sure.
Had about half-an-hour in my room before leaving for dinner at 7:00. Lovely meal at Sentidos. Really good food. Then a walk back to the hotel. It was late. By the time I downloaded, showered, shaved, it was near midnight.
January 15, 2019 – Havana to Viñales: Got up at 6:00, washed, packed everything, went up to the roof and took pix of sunrise. Then to the buffet at 7:00, back to my room, took all my luggage down to the lobby, checked out (and they send housekeeping to your room to check if you took something from the mini-bar!), changed USD into CUCs, boarded the bus at 8:00.
Headed first to Hamel Alley (Callejon de Hamel), a street with all sorts of murals and art developed by the single artist. Interesting, strange, fun. Back in the bus, we drove over to a busy intersection in Vedado, got out and took pix of people and vehicles. Then a short walk to an outdoor food market for shooting. Back in the bus, we drove to the Hotel National, an institution. Great hotel, lobby, gardens, view of the Malecon, bunkers from the Cuban Missile Crisis days, old Spanish cannons, etc. Fun place to wander around and visit.
Next stop was in Miramar at Talisman Paladar. Another large and good meal, although the main course was a bit chewy.
On the bus, we drove for over three hours to get to Viñales. Did a stop about an hour out at a place for restrooms, coffee, and a nice shop where I got two kilos of ground coffee and a Cuba cap. Then toward Viñales stopping at a hotel above the valley for an overlook of the valley where we’ll be walking tomorrow.
We are all in casas particulars … private homes with rooms to rent (BnBs). All our group were divided up into different houses along the block. The Crafts, Zoe, Jeff, and I are in Casa Candido. I am in Room 1. After settling in, Zoe, Jeff, and I took a walk around town. It’s not a very interesting town by itself, but a good central point for touring the area. And wonderful for taking images of the people who live here.
Back in the room, I downloaded stuff, and we went to a sumptuous dinner here at the casa. Way too much food, of course. Then there was the shower experience explained below.
January 16, 2019 – Viñales: Got up around 7:00 and wandered on the street and then up on the roof of our casa. The sun had just come up, so there was good light on the mountains and surrounding houses. Took pictures and wandered around until 8:30 when we had breakfast in the casa. OMG. Another big meal and lots and lots of very strong coffee.
At 9:15 all of us gathered and walked up into the main part of the town where we met with our guide of the day, Jose. Then it was a five-hour walk of over four miles in the valley, which is a UNESCO site – Viñales National Park. The valley is full of farms. Mostly tobacco, but also coffee as well as fruit trees, sweet potatoes, etc. And a limestone mountain range overlooks the valley. They’re the oldest mountains in Cuba. Lots of photo opportunities.
First stop was at a coffee farm where we were told about the operation, saw beans drying, beans on plants, drank coffee, and could even buy some beans in a plastic water bottle. Nice visit and conversation with the farmers.
Next long stop was at a tobacco farm. This was really a great experience. Jose and the farmer, Rolando, told us the entire process from planting seeds, growing seedlings, planting the seedlings, harvesting, and curing. This farmer has 70,000 plants growing. All tobacco needs to be harvested before rainy season. So seedlings are started in October, planted in December and January, and harvested in the Spring. The farmer then gave us a full demonstration of rolling tobacco into a cigar. One of our group then got a lesson in doing this. Then it was time for some of our group to light up. Zoe did the best job … done this before!
Long walk back through the valley into town where we got on the bus and were driven to Restaurante La Rosita on the Hernandez organic farm where we ate family style from many dishes. After a long lunch, we got back into the bus and went to the Prehistoric Mural … a huge mural on the side of a mountain depicting the indigenous people (long dead).
Back into town and our casa. Jeff and I walked back to town center and did some light shopping in a craft market. Then time to write this and download images from the day.
We gathered again at 6:45, walked into town center, and ate at Parrillada 1920 … just Jeff and I ate there. Had wanted to go to another restaurant Zoe had chosen, but reservations are not available anywhere in town and there were no tables available for our group. So we split up and Jeff and I ate a huge grilled meat platter (pork, beef, chicken, lamb) that was quite good. Got back to the casa around 9:00.
Will experiment with the shower again tonight. Last night I could not get it to turn off. And it’s a strange arrangement – there is only cold water at the sink and coming into the showerhead. But the showerhead is heated by electricity! Yow! Seems that’s the way it is around here. No hot water, per se. Last night when I could not get the shower water to stop running, I donned a towel and got Zoe to come in the fool with it until we could get it shut off. Then I did a cold-water shave. Almost thought of not shaving, but braved it.
But I could not get the water to be more than luke warm. So I did my cold-water shave, no shower. To bed.
January 17, 2019 – Viñales, Cabezas, Sumidero: I awakened about 6:00. Got up, washed, dressed, and went up on the roof of the casa to take pictures of the pre-dawn light (sunrise is about 7:10). After a while, Jeff and others joined me. We then went into the center of Viñales and stood on an intersection where people, horses with wagons, old buses all came and went. Took lots of images there and walked back to casa for 8:00 breakfast.
At around 9:00, we all got into the bus for an hour-and-a-half ride way out into the Pinar del Rio countryside. Stopped in a small village, Cabezas, where there was a single-lane bridge over a river … crossways timbers and board running the length of the bridge for vehicle tires (two rows). Spent time there and there were two other similar bridges we crossed before getting the Sumidero, our destination. Beautiful little town where we spent an hour shooting images of all that was going on around us. We were the news of the day for these town people.
Hour-and-a-half and we were back in Viñales. Jeff, Chuck, and I went to the same restaurant where Jeff and I had eaten last night and got nice sandwiches … finally a light meal! Back in the room, I downloaded images. At 3:00, all of us met at our casa where chairs had been set up and a flat-screen TV brought in. We all had given Jeff three images to share in a critique session. Was useful as always to see what people saw and photographed. Critique lasted a bit over an hour.
At 5:30, we all met at the bus and went to La Ermita Hotel above Viñales to have a drink and shoot sunset pictures. Back at our casa, some of the group went for a salsa lesson. Dinner here is at 7:30 after the dancing lesson. Another huge dinner prepared by our hosts. After dinner, we gave them our gifts of appreciation.
January 18, 2019 – Viñales, Las Terrazas, Havana: Did not sleep well last night … up about every hour. Got up and dressed at 7:00. Breakfast at 7:45, departure 8:30. About two hours later, we arrived at Las Terrazas, an agricultural and arts community. Interesting visit that included two really neat artists … one a painter and the other someone who created paper by recycling from other papers and then painting on what he has made. Then lunch at El Romero on site – a vegetarian restaurant – followed by iced Frappuccino at a coffee house there.
Another hour later we were back in Havana and went to a performance by Habana Compas Dance. This is a private dance company that incorporates Afro-Cuban cultures in their work. Lots of drumming on all sorts of objects. All women. All professional dancers from this company. Excellent.
Next to Hotel Parque Central where I am in Room 347 this time. Got settled in and then left in the bus at 5:15 to go to La Guarida, a bar and restaurant. It’s a fascinating old building that the owners are reclaiming. It’s hard to even describe the building and images will only give a partial expression of what it is. Climbed several flights of stairs to the roof to take pictures of sunset. Then down a floor to the bar for drinks until a bit after 7:00.
Bus took us to Paladar San Christobal for a lovely dinner. Excellent food, chef-owner host, surroundings. This is a place the Obamas dined when they were in Havana. And around 9:00 we headed back to the hotel.
Lacking hot water for three days, I plan to luxuriate in a hot shower tonight. Early rise tomorrow for sunrise shoot.
January 19, 2019 – Havana: It’s the last full day in Cuba for this trip. Been jam-packed days, each and every one of them. Jeff has run a terrific trip and the guide here, Zoe, and our driver, Juanito, are super.
Got up at 6:00. 6:30 taxi down to the Malecon (a long wall along the water) for sunrise shots. Wonderful to see the light as it comes up over the city and harbour. Took a taxi back to hotel for breakfast buffet. Massive, of course.
At 8:30 got onto the bus and to Christopher Columbus Cemetery (no, he’s not buried here). It’s huge. We spent an hour shooting there. Interesting patterns stones, markers, monuments, and some shattered graves as well. Almost all is Italian marble, especially in the original part where the important people are buried.
Then on to an old mansion owned by 82-yer-old Josie, widow of a diplomat. Faded glory. Things falling and crumbling. Beautiful person and house. Lots of videos and shoots like with Rhianna have been done there. She lives here with an attendant. The rooms are elegant while dated and faded.
Bus back to hotel for a brief rest. Onward at Noon to a photographer’s workshop/restaurant, Amos Cuba, where we learned of his program teaching photography to children. His images of thing like the 2017 hurricane were stunning. It’s a partnership with one of the photographers (the one who talked to us) with a last name of Batista and the other is a Castro, son of Fidel.
Back to the hotel (we walked each way). Then Jeff, two others, and I walked into Old Havana on streets teeming with people. Long lines of people waiting for a bus. Folks sitting out on their front steps. Kids being a bit too aggressive in trying to get money from us foreigners. Vendors wheeling carts. All the hustle and bustle of a vibrant city.
Got back to hotel about 4:00 after stopping at a cigar store for one of our group to buy a supply that I hope lasts him a year! Headed out tonight at 5:00 for rooftop bar, Magic Flute, that overlooks the American Embassy (which is dark, no one but guards around). Had a performance by a new all-girl musician group, Colors, which was really good. Unfortunately, they had to move their concert up to 5:00 since they had other performances that night. This meant we stayed at the bar until 7:45 since where we were going for dinner only opened at 8:00 and that was when our reservation was.
The Tierra Restaurant is located in Fábrica de Arte Cubano. The site is filled with all sorts of art, but we really didn’t have time to see it. It was late. We were tired. Dinner was good, but slow. And, when we were done, the facility was stuffed with young people drinking and dancing in at least three venues we traipsed through trying to find our way to the exit.
Back at the hotel, I packed and put stuff into my suitcase and an extra duffel I had brought along since I knew I was buying coffee and rum. To bed after midnight.
January 20, 2019 – Havana, Miami, St. Louis: Up at 6:30, breakfast buffet at 7:00, checked out of my room, into the bus at 8:30 for a 40-minute ride to airport. Since I had a second bag, I had to check in twice. First time was to get a slip showing my flight and that I had a second bag. Then to another counter across the way to pay 40 CUCs for the fee. With my receipt, I got back in line with our group and got checked in and bags tagged and onto the conveyor. Then through passport control … lots of agents, lots of people. Moved fairly fast and I was told to go into the line for VIPs since no one was there. This also meant that I was in a very short line to go through screening.
Walked down to Gate 12 (end of the concourse, of course) to meet up with our group. We were all seated together on the flight to Miami, which was so bumpy that the flight crew had to remain seated the entire flight.
Global Entry was a breeze needing only to scan my passport and take my picture. No fingerprints. No duty slip to deal with. Like 30 seconds and I was done. Off to the baggage area where our bags were at the end carousel. But they came in very quickly.
Now I had a very very long walk from the baggage area to the D Concourse where American Airlines has their check-in counters. American has a large presence in Miami with endless counters to check in. But I needed to go to First Class check in which was much farther, much farther. Wanted to see if I could get on earlier flight with other STL folks who were on it, but all flights were really full.
Went through TSA Pre-Check, but it was around Gate D3 and I had to go to D39 … another really really long walk. Tried to get a day pass at the Admirals Club, but they were full given other flight delays. I found a Cuban food restaurant and had a lovely meal. Then went to ate 39 to wait several hours before my flight. I think it was about six hours, give or take.
Flight to STL bumpy. Flight attendants had to be seated for the first hour before it smoothed out and the could serve food and drink. And COLD when we arrived. Luggage took over an hour to reach our carousel. And I was treated to a ride home by the Gusdorfs. Arrived about 11:30, went to bed.
Cuba is a wonderful place. The people are generous and approachable. They make do with what they have and figure out how to do stuff when things are limited. In Havana, there is a real contrast between Central and Old Havana with the latter a contrast of colors, architecture, faded and fading, upright and decaying, falling apart. Got a good feeling of the country, its people and culture, its politics. As compared to Israel where most there love Trump and dislike Obama, it’s the opposite here. People actually stop you on the street and tell you they love Obama and hate Trump, who has set Cuban-American relations backward.
It was a good group of people. Some of whom I knew beforehand and some not. Jeff, CET, and our guide, Zoe, did a super job in organizing and running the trip. I am very glad I went.
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