20131115 Fes: Had a good night’s sleep. Up about 7:30, down for breakfast with our group, in the bus at 9:00. Headed for Art Naji, one of the prime makers of Fes pottery. We were given a tour that started with the dry clay, went into where shapes were made, and then on to areas where details were painted or chipped out of fired materials. Impressive.

Then took bus to near the Medina and followed Ishmael into some of the 15,000 streets and alleys in an area inhabited by 250,000 people. On your own, you’d be lost and never found. Narrow streets, lots of people, shops and stands line the alleys and streets. Hard to take images given the crowding.

After walking a good deal through the medina, we crossed over an outside space to the tannery. We climbed up several flights of stairs to get to a roof balcony to look at the vast sets of vats. One whole area (square vats) is used to soften the leather. Round vats with colors in them are used to dye the leather. Mostly goat for leather and camel belly for suede. They explained the process and the time it takes to get the leather done ready to be sent to shops to make into about everything. We went story by story down with different goods for sale at each level.

Back into the medina and to lunch at Restaurant Asmae where we had a huge assortment of salads before our main courses and the fruit and cookies. Lots of food like everywhere else.

Final visit in the medina was to Medrassa Attarine with its wonderful architecture. All the details are made by hand engraving in the plaster. Was a school and now is only used for religious holidays.

Back to the hotel on the bus. Nice lecture by Ron about 5:30. Dinner at 7:00. My only quandary right now is whether the laundry I sent out yesterday will make it back to me to pack for tomorrow!

20231116 Fes to Chefchaquen: Left the hotel about 8:30 and drove to the Jewish Cemetery. It is so different from any other one I have visited. Click on the link herein to get some sort of idea of thousands of white domed graves. It’s startling in its difference and simplicity. We spent the good part of an hour there and could have continues with shapes, shadows, light. And there were several rows of children’s graves as a result of a typhus epidemic.

Walked from there into the heart of the Mellah, which was once the Jewish Quarter. Now few if any Jews live there. Here you can see Sephardic architecture including balconies which you do not see elsewhere in Fes. Went to Ibn Danan Synagogue, now a World Heritage Site. Sephardic in origin, its layout a bit different than the one we saw in Casablanca. Walked back to the bus and headed north.

Heading into the Rif region, which is an agricultural area. There are two Spanish enclaves on the coast near where we are going. And the area was under Spain for a long time before independence. Thus, the common language is Spanish. And many people here are fairer skin with blue or green eyes. Descendants of German Vandals.

Got into Chefchaquen just before 6:00. Bus had to park waaaaaaay below the city. Ishmael said it was about 15 minutes to the hotel. It was steep. I had to stop to catch my breath. Ishmael then said it was only another 15 minutes away. No way. Ron and I hailed a cab which took us to the hotel for the price of $2.

Staying at Hotel Parador where I am in room 223. While some others went out to explore with Ishmael, I stayed here, sat on the deck with David Levy, watched sunset. Then buffet dinner (not great) and up to the room.

There is an elevator. First one since Marrakech. The room actually has a desk and chair. Since Casablanca, rooms have had neither. Makes it hard to do any work on computer if there is nowhere to set it down and nowhere to set my butt down.

20231118 To Casablanca: Left hotel a bit before 9:00. David and I took a taxi to the bus. It was really a long way away. And, even though it was downhill, we just didn’t want to deal with it.

We travelled through a large valley that is all agricultural. Sugar cane, melons, strawberries, etc. Lush soil. Lots of water. Some villages along the way.

As we approached Rabat, the highway changed as did the carefully tended landscape. Afterall, it is the capital and where the king lives. Around 2:00 we got to our destination, the restaurant Dar Rbatia, for a traditional Moroccan meal … lots of courses and lots of food. Ended up leaving there about 3:30 and headed to Casablanca arriving around 5:30.

As with our first nights, we are at the HYATT REGENCY, CASABLANCA. Nice to have a room with all the amenities…desk and chair, room for luggage, great bathroom, etc. Went down to the lobby and the bar to meet with others around 6:30 until 8:00. Then up to the room to rearrange everything in my suitcase and camera bag.

I will get up about 6:30 tomorrow, breakfast at 7:00, and leave hotel in our regular bus for the airport at 8:00.

It’s truly been a trip of a lifetime. Not only the sights, sounds, food, but also really learning about the culture and history. And how this country is so different from what many think of Moslem countries. Ishmael is master guide and source of information. Ron has been lovely to be with as a friend. And many thanks to my fellow travelers, Ron, and Ishmael for the care and concern they gave me when I was sick.

20231117 Chefchaouen: Laid back day. Up at 7:30, brief walk around the area near hotel, ate breakfast with David about 8:30. Then wandered around a bit and met up at the hotel with the group to go out at 10:30.

We climbed both gently and more aggressively up the mountain into the heart of the old village. Of course, in the Blue City, we wanted lots of blue…and got it. Lots of all sorts of colors in stalls and on walls besides the blue of the buildings and doors. Got back to hotel about Noon.

1:00 we followed Ishmael to a restaurant on the square for lunch. I had gelato afterwards! Then a continued to walk around the square.

Saw Ruth and Claudia and followed them up into the village. Lots of colors and sights. And cats. Cats everywhere. While we are used to all sorts of cats on this trip, we have much more leisurely pace here and can interact with them more. Dogs, too. And the dogs have either yellow or green tags on an ear showing they are city dogs and cared for with vaccinations. Cats show this with a tiny clip of an ear.

Lots of up in this city. Got tired and left the two women and headed downhill. You are told all downhill lanes lead to the square. Well, some do not. So, I was well below the square and just followed my instincts and found a street that led back up to the hotel. Ends up I walked right by the restaurant where we ate tonight. Did downloading of images and some sharing for a few hours.

At 7:00, we walked several blocks to Triana, which you had to access down a very long set of stairs. The food was excellent. I had a meal that would be $75-80 in US, but was $29 here. Long walk up the stairs, uphill on the street, then steeper uphill to get back to hotel.

Other than stopping for lunch in Rabat, the trip is basically over at this point. It’s been wonderful even with the challenge I was faced with.

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