20180601 Jerusalem: Left hotel about 8:30 and drove toward Jerusalem through the Jordan Valley. Found out that there is a dam on Sea of Kinnereth so that water does not flow into the river and down to the Dead Sea. It’s all of their major water system and, as part of the accords with Jordan, they provide water to Jordan, which is a very dry country. And we found out as well that about 85% of their water is recycled to be used for everything other than drinking water.
So, headed north along the valley and fences that separate Jordan from the Territories (West Bank). Yael told us that after the Oslo Accords, the Territories were divided up into three sections: A, B, and C. All that are in “A” areas are Palestinian controlled and citizens of Israel are not allowed to go there. Jericho is in “A,” for example. “C” is total Israeli control and “B” is mixed with Israel providing overall security, but the Palestinian Authority doing security within their towns. Red signs at intersections warn that one would be entering an “A” area. And as we got near Jerusalem through the Judean Desert, there was a checkpoint since we were leaving “B” and entering “C” and greater Israel.
Traffic in Jerusalem is horrible. Worse today since its Ramadan and hundreds of thousand Moslem people go to the Dome of the Rock for prayers. So besides normal heavy traffic, all of the old city’s streets were closed.
Our first stop was Mt. Scopus and the Hebrew University Campus for an overlook of the old and new parts of Jerusalem. With a blessing and a sip of wine, we welcomed ourselves to the home of the Jews. Then the traffic snarl began as we tried to get to the Mahane Yehuda Market (The “Shuk”). Yael had to go way out of the way to try to circle around the closed streets. We went through a predominately orthodox neighborhood which had throngs of people preparing for the Sabbath.
Finally emerged near the market. Before going in, Yael got some hot, fresh rugaleh from her favorite bakery. Then we dove into the market. It’s more of a crush of people than any other market I’ve been in during my travels. It was really hard for me to even see the rest of our group ahead of me as we pushed our way through. Got nice falafel from a stand. Spent time at a great spice booth sampling and buying. Went to see how halvah and tahini are made … huge grindstone where pure sesame butter emerges.
After being a bit crushed, we returned to the car and went to Dan Panorama Jerusalem where we are in Room 357. I went out and walked way uphill to the nearest ATM to stock up on shekels. About 6:30, we all walked downhill to the old train station which has been converted to shops and restaurants for a nice dinner and ice cream. Is an area that is non-kosher and open on Shabbat. Then long walk uphill … and it’s really chilly here, which none of us expected.
Tomorrow Shabbat continues, so most things will be closed. No planned activities. Yael is with her family and we will see her on Sunday.
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